A throwback to the golden age of European travel
In an age dominated by budget air travel, there seems to be a resurgence of a nostalgic mode of transportation: night trains. As someone who appreciates rail travel and values sustainability, few experiences excite me more than falling asleep in one country and waking up to scenic landscapes rolling by, knowing that a new language and culture await at the destination.
That's why I was thrilled to hear about the expansion of European Sleeper's services. Following the launch of their inaugural overnight route from Brussels to Berlin, they have recently extended their service from Berlin to Prague.
While the Brussels-to-Berlin journey includes stops in Antwerp, Rotterdam, and Amsterdam, the expanded route now includes stops in Dresden and Bad Schandau in Germany, as well as Děčín, Ústí nad Labem, and Prague in the Czech Republic. Travellers have the option to choose from three types of tickets: seating, couchettes, and sleeping compartments.
The European Sleeper represents a resurgence in overnight rail travel across Europe, driven in part by the European Commission's push for investment in night trains to support its climate goals. In December 2023, Austria's national railway, ÖBB, expanded its Nightjet sleeper train service to include Berlin on its existing Vienna-to-Brussels route.
Additionally, after almost ten years of suspended service, ÖBB and Germany's national railway, Deutsche Bahn, introduced a new 15-hour Paris-to-Berlin overnight train service in December. During the same month, a revived night train service resumed operations between Paris and Aurillac in France after a 20-year hiatus.
Night Trains: A Nostalgic and Niche Mode of Travel
Despite their allure and nostalgic appeal, night trains remain a relatively specialized form of transportation. Often, long-distance train journeys are more costly than equivalent flights, and services like the European Sleeper typically operate only three times per week, whereas direct flights between major cities often depart multiple times daily. However, beyond the environmental advantages of train travel, night trains offer access to intriguing, off-the-beaten-path destinations that are inaccessible by air, such as Bad Schandau, one of the European Sleeper's new stops.
With my ticket in hand, I recently boarded the European Sleeper in Berlin. My solo sleeper compartment featured two seats facing each other, adorned with faded plush coverings and additional bedding above. Although each sleeper compartment can accommodate up to three travelers (standard seating and couchette options can fit six), I opted to pay extra to have the compartment to myself.
According to Chris Engelsman, co-founder of the European Sleeper, many of the carriages on the Brussels-to-Berlin route hail from the 1950s and '60s, with some undergoing renovations. However, the recently extended line to Prague introduced more modern carriages, including air-conditioned couchette coaches. The company also has future plans for additional refurbishments aimed at creating a refreshed ambiance with contemporary comforts.
Engelsman predicts that the European Sleeper typically accommodates between 350 to 400 passengers, but during peak summer months, the company plans to add extra carriages to accommodate up to 600 travelers. This expansion aims to enable more passengers to board the 19:22 train in Brussels, enjoy views of the Dutch countryside before sleeping, and wake up somewhere between Berlin and Dresden, ultimately arriving in Prague by 10:56.
Exploring the Hidden Gem of Bad Schandau and Saxon Switzerland
For outdoor enthusiasts, considering disembarking the train a few stops earlier in Bad Schandau just before 09:00 could prove rewarding. This Saxony town, home to approximately 3,000 residents, may be unfamiliar to many international travelers. However, for those who enjoy venturing off the beaten path, it could be the most enriching stop along the entire route.
Bad Schandau serves as the rail gateway to Germany's Saxon Switzerland National Park.
Characterized by a picturesque series of waterfront towns nestled along the captivating Elbe River and connected by the scenic Malerweg hiking trail—a 116km route traversing the region, with elevation gains totaling 3,600m—Saxon Switzerland has been likened to Germany's counterpart to Italy's famed Cinque Terre.
Having harbored an interest in exploring this region since relocating to Germany nearly eight years ago, I eagerly stepped off the train at Bad Schandau rail station, crossed the shimmering Elbe River via a brief ferry ride, and donned my trail running shoes to embark on the Malerweg.
As an enthusiastic runner, the experience of navigating between the pointed peaks of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, feeling the cool breeze amidst moss-covered valleys of stone, and ascending the Schrammsteine rock formation using a series of ladders for a panoramic vista was unparalleled. The Elbe Sandstone Mountains, resembling a jagged spine running through the park, offer breathtaking views extending into the adjacent Bohemian Switzerland National Park in the Czech Republic from atop the Schrammsteine.
Exploring the Bastei and Beyond: Outdoor Adventures in Saxon Switzerland National Park
The following day, I embarked on a 3km hike along the Malerweg, starting from the picturesque medieval village of Stadt Wehlen. My destination? The Bastei, arguably the highlight of the region—a breathtaking rock formation sculpted over a million years ago, adorned with the remnants of a nearly millennium-old castle. The Bastei has long captivated tourists' imaginations. In 1824, a wooden bridge was constructed to allow hikers to traverse the rock formation, with its popularity prompting the construction of a more durable sandstone bridge in 1851.
Today, the Bastei attracts approximately 1.5 million visitors annually, solidifying its status as the most frequented destination within the German national park system. Despite its popularity, the crowds are manageable, particularly in the morning or during off-peak seasons. Arriving in Rathen, the nearest town and port to the Bastei, around 10:00, I found ferries already bustling with tourists eager to ascend to the Bastei.
Beyond hiking and trail running, Saxon Switzerland National Park offers a wealth of outdoor activities to suit all preferences. Cyclists can pedal along the Elberadweg, one of Germany's most renowned long-distance cycling routes spanning 1,300km from the Czech Republic's Giant Mountains (Krkonoše) to the town of Cuxhaven, tracing the Elbe River's path with stunning views of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. Additionally, visitors can embark on steamship tours along the river, or indulge in canoeing, kayaking, or rafting adventures down the Elbe River.
Rest and Relaxation in Bad Schandau: Embracing Tradition and Tranquility
After a day of exhilarating adventures, Bad Schandau proves to be the perfect oasis for rejuvenation – fittingly, "Bad" translating to "spa" in German. The town boasts a rich spa tradition dating back centuries, owing to its therapeutic waters and abundance of spa facilities. With its meticulously restored villas, Bad Schandau epitomizes the charm of a historical German spa town.
Particularly enchanting is the area surrounding the town's Kurpark, where a late 19th-century tram still operates, offering more of a nostalgic delight than a swift mode of transportation (the 241 bus covers the same route in less time). Nevertheless, indulging in at least one ride to its final stop at Lichtenhain Waterfall proves worthwhile.
From there, adventurers can embark on foot along the Malerweg trail to the picturesque village of Schmilka. A visit to the Bio-Braumanufaktur brewery offers the opportunity to savor one of their beers alongside a hearty bowl of lentil soup. Just remember to return to Bad Schandau in time for the 19:59 departure of the European Sleeper train. Following a restful night's sleep on board, passengers can once again greet the morning with a "Goedemorgen" to Amsterdam or a "Bonjour" to Brussels.
