A new take on Jewish matzah ball soup

Fany Gerson celebrates her Jewish heritage and Mexican upbringing by adding a flavorful twist to the traditional matzah ball soup, perfect for a Passover Seder. Her version incorporates spicy chilies, avocado, coriander, and lime, adding a vibrant and modern twist to the classic dish.

Matzah ball soup holds deep roots in Jewish culture, with elements tracing back to the Torah. During the Exodus from Egypt, the Israelites carried matzah, unleavened bread, with them as they were liberated from slavery. Since then, Jews have incorporated matzah into the Passover Seder, a symbolic feast commemorating their liberation.

The origins of matzah balls, known as kneidlach in Yiddish, likely stem from Eastern Europe, where similar bread dumplings like the German Knödel are found. Instead of using day-old bread, matzah meal, eggs, water, and schmaltz (goose or chicken fat) are mixed to form the balls, which are then cooked in hot water and served in chicken soup, earning the affectionate nickname "Jewish penicillin."

Matzah ball soup is quintessentially associated with Ashkenazi Jewry, served during Shabbat and Passover. Beyond its ancient roots, the soup holds sentimental value for many Jews, evoking memories of childhood comfort. Fany Gerson's innovative take on the classic dish adds a contemporary twist while honoring its rich cultural heritage.

Fany Gerson's upbringing in Mexico City exposed her to a diverse culinary heritage that includes her Eastern European Jewish roots. The Jewish community in Mexico has a long history, dating back to Conversos, or secret Jews, who fled the Spanish Inquisition in the late 15th and early 16th centuries. Over time, the community grew with waves of immigration from the Middle East and Eastern Europe in the 19th and 20th centuries. Gerson's own family history reflects this, with her great-grandmother immigrating from Ukraine in 1926, contributing to the Eastern European Jewish culinary legacy that continues through Gerson's cooking.

Despite growing up in Mexico City, where the Jewish population is relatively small, Gerson's family maintained traditions like enjoying matzah ball soup, not just during the High Holidays but regularly throughout the year. In her family, the soup featured a clear, flavorful chicken broth with small, dense matzah balls, a departure from the larger, fluffier variety commonly found in Jewish-American delis.

Gerson fondly recalls these firm matzah balls, remarking on their unique texture and flavor. Despite their hardness, she and her family cherished them as a beloved part of their culinary tradition.

Upon moving to New York City, Fany Gerson encountered the traditional New York-style matzah ball soup, initially finding it different from the version she grew up with in Mexico City. Initially, she questioned whether the delis in New York knew how to properly make matzah balls, only to realize that her grandmother's recipe might have been the one with a unique twist.

Rather than favoring one style over the other, Gerson decided to embrace both culinary traditions by creating her own fusion of Mexican and Ashkenazi Jewish flavors in her matzah ball soup. She incorporated ingredients like chilies, coriander, and avocado into the traditional soup, blending the two cultural influences seamlessly.

Perfecting the texture of the matzah balls was a process for Gerson, aiming for a balance between firmness and fluffiness. She achieves this by using room temperature eggs and a combination of parsley, cilantro, dill, and chives for flavor. However, Gerson is flexible with her herb choices, sometimes using just two instead of all four.
Gerson prefers to prepare the broth for her soup in advance, making it a day or two before making the matzah balls. This allows for easier meal preparation, as all she needs to do is make the matzah balls and add the garnish before serving.

The March 2024 cookbook, "The Jewish Holiday Table: A World of Recipes, Traditions & Stories to Celebrate All Year Long," showcases 135 holiday recipes from Jewish tables around the world. Curated by Naama Shefi, the founder of the Jewish Food Society, the book celebrates the diverse culinary heritage of Jewish communities worldwide.

Shefi describes the book as a love letter to the rich tapestry of Jewish culinary traditions, featuring recipes and stories that highlight the unique flavors and cultural influences of each region. The cookbook includes menus for various holiday feasts, such as a Ukrainian Mexican Seder, a Persian Rosh Hashanah feast, and an Iraqi spread for Purim.

Organized according to the Jewish agricultural calendar, the book presents tables from diverse backgrounds, spanning from Soviet Jewry to Morocco and Yemen. Shefi emphasizes the incredible diversity within Jewish cuisine, showcasing the array of traditions and flavors that make up the global Jewish culinary landscape.

Matzah Ball Soup a la Mexicana with Chiles and Cilantro recipe

Making matzah ball soup shouldn't be a daunting task. Fany Gerson's recipe is described as "very user-friendly," even for those who have never attempted it before. To simplify the process, Gerson recommends using an ice cream scoop to measure out the mixture for each matzah ball. Additionally, wetting your hands with water can help prevent the mixture from sticking to your skin as you shape the balls. Once formed, all the matzah balls can be boiled together simultaneously.

Ingredients

For the broth:

1 large whole chicken (2.2-2.7kg / 5-6lbs) or 1 smaller chicken plus 8 chicken wings
1½ white onions (about 225g / 8oz), halved
4 medium carrots (about 225g / 8oz), peeled and sliced into 6mm (¼in) rounds
3 celery stalks (about 170g / 6oz), cut into large chunks
1 leek, split lengthwise, rinsed well, and thinly sliced
1 or 2 serrano or other hot fresh chillies, halved lengthwise
1 large garlic clove
2 bay leaves
8 coriander stems
8 flat-leaf parsley sprigs
2 epazote sprigs (optional)
1 tbsp kosher salt
5 or 6 whole black peppercorns
about 4L (4 qts) water

For the matzah balls:

5 large eggs
1¼ cups (145g / 5oz) matzah meal
2½ tsp kosher salt
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
¼ cup melted schmaltz, duck fat, bone marrow or vegetable oil
¼ cup (30g / 1oz) finely grated white onion
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh herbs, such as dill, flat-leaf parsley and chives

For the garnish:

1 small white onion (about 85g / 3oz), finely chopped
2 serrano chillies or 1 jalapeño, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
1 cup (30g / 1oz) chopped fresh coriander
1 or 2 avocados, halved, pitted, peeled and diced
3 or 4 limes, cut into wedges

Method

Step 1:

Prepare the broth by placing the chicken in a large stockpot (at least 10 liters in capacity). Add onions, carrots, celery, leek, chili, garlic, bay leaves, coriander, parsley, epazote (if using), salt, peppercorns, and water. Ensure that the water covers all the ingredients; if not, add more water to cover them.

Step 2:

Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat, then adjust the heat to maintain a simmer when partially covered. Simmer for 50 to 60 minutes until the chicken is fully cooked, skimming off any foam as needed. Remove from heat.

Step 3:

Carefully remove the chicken (and wings, if included) from the broth and transfer it to a bowl to cool. Once cooled, shred the chicken meat and set it aside in a separate bowl. Discard the chicken skin.

Step 4:

Return the chicken bones to the pot and continue simmering the broth for another 1 to 2 hours, adding more water if necessary to keep the ingredients covered. Remove from heat and allow the broth to cool slightly. Strain the broth into a clean pot, discarding the chicken carcass and vegetables.

Step 5:

Prepare the matzah balls. Separate the whites of 3 eggs into a large, grease-free bowl, ensuring no yolks are mixed in. Reserve the yolks in a small bowl. In another large bowl, combine the matzo meal, salt, pepper, baking powder, and baking soda, whisking to blend.

Step 6:

In a medium bowl, whisk together the 2 whole eggs, 3 yolks, schmaltz, grated onion, and herbs. Beat the egg whites until firm peaks form, either by hand or with a handheld electric mixer. Stir the schmaltz mixture into the matzah meal mixture, then fold one-third of the beaten egg whites into the mixture until incorporated. Gradually fold in the remaining egg whites until no streaks remain. Cover the batter with plastic wrap, pressing it directly against the surface, and refrigerate for about 30 minutes until firm.

Step 7:

Prepare a small bowl of water and place it near your work surface. Scoop rounded tablespoons (20g) of the matzah batter and arrange them on a baking sheet. Moisten your hands with water and gently roll each scoop of batter into a ball.

Step 8:

Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning with more salt if necessary. Bring the broth to a simmer over medium-high heat. Carefully add the matzah balls to the simmering broth, turning them a few times. Cook until the matzah balls are plump and cooked through, approximately 30 minutes.

Step 9:

Stir the shredded chicken into the soup and simmer until warmed through. Place a few matzah balls in each soup bowl and ladle in the broth and chicken. Serve with garnishes at the table for diners to add according to their preferences.