The barely visited US national park that requires a passport

Amidst the significant surge in visitation to U.S. national parks in recent years, the National Park of American Samoa stands out as a refreshing change.
Following a lengthy journey of 15 hours from Boulder, Colorado, I arrived at my destination. Despite multiple flights, I found myself in a U.S. territory, albeit one situated thousands of miles away from any other, and closer to Australia than the mainland U.S.

Touching down on the small island of Tutuila in American Samoa, the only inhabited U.S. territory south of the equator, encompassing seven South Pacific islands and atolls, I descended the aircraft stairs onto the tarmac. The balmy island breeze immediately greeted me, introducing me to a destination that had previously eluded my geographical knowledge.

Despite being a U.S. citizen traveling from the mainland to a U.S. territory, I underwent the customary process of passport control and customs. Unlike other U.S. territories where U.S. citizens can travel without passports, all travelers to American Samoa are required to pass through immigration and present their passports.

Observing my surroundings, I couldn't help but feel like I had stumbled into a family reunion rather than an airport terminal. It was evident that everyone knew or was related to one another, with only a handful of visitors from outside the islands, myself included, standing out amidst the familial atmosphere.

With just two weekly flights – on Mondays and Thursdays – to and from the island, covering a distance of approximately 2,600 miles from Honolulu, the journey to American Samoa is not one taken lightly, especially considering the average cost of around $1,000 per trip. Consequently, most travelers who make the journey do so for a specific purpose, much like myself: to experience one of the most isolated and least frequented national parks in the United States – the National Park of American Samoa.

Over the past decade, I have embarked on solitary travels to the major U.S. national parks, aiming to visit all 63 of them independently. While some adventurers set their sights on exploring every country in the world, a small yet growing number of intrepid travelers focus on visiting all of the officially designated U.S. national parks. Due to its remoteness and the expense associated with reaching it, the National Park of American Samoa typically remains one of the last parks to be visited on the journey to explore all 63.

Embarking on my 59th solo park visit, I felt incredibly daunted by the prospect ahead. Despite my extensive trip planning, I struggled to find current logistical information about the area. However, I found solace in the concept of "Fa'asamoa," or the Samoan Way, which highlights the island's embracing and inclusive nature. Rooted in Polynesia's ancient culture, the Samoan Way encompasses traditional family and community values that permeate the island's customs and traditions.

Embraced by Community and Natural Splendor in American Samoa

Upon stepping outside the terminal into the rich, aromatic air, I instantly felt embraced by the strong sense of community. Families warmly greeted each other, and strangers offered assistance with my luggage, while many kindly offered me rides to my hotel. As a solo female traveler, I immediately felt at ease in this welcoming atmosphere.

Tisa Fa'amuli, owner of Tisa's Barefoot Bar and founder of the Alega Marine Sanctuary, described the touching tradition of families gathering at the airport to welcome their loved ones home, reflecting the island's close-knit community spirit.
Arriving after dark, I eagerly anticipated the breathtaking scenery awaiting me at sunrise: crystal blue waters, lush rainforests, and towering volcanic mountains. The next morning, I embarked on my exploration of the National Park of American Samoa, spanning 13,500 acres across three islands: Tutuila, Ta'ū, and Ofu.

Renting a car from one of the few hotels on the island, I drove through quaint settlements to the coastal village of Vatia. There, I embarked on the Pola Island Trail, a scenic 1km hike renowned for its tranquil beauty. As I traversed the lush forest trail, each step felt like a meditative journey, culminating in a stunning view of the coastline and the iconic Pola Island rising dramatically from the sea, a sight previously only seen in guidebooks.

I had anticipated encountering fellow hikers at the secluded beach marking the end of the trail, but to my surprise, I found myself alone, accompanied only by the rhythmic crash of waves against the rocky shore. Sitting on a smooth rock, gazing out at the water, I experienced a profound sense of tranquility unlike any I had felt in other U.S. national parks.

Tisa Fa'amuli echoed my sentiments, emphasizing that many visitors to the national park share a similar sense of wonder and peace. She highlighted American Samoa as a sanctuary for those seeking respite from the busyness of the world, where they can find solace in the serenity of nature.

Having experienced the crowds often associated with popular natural attractions and national parks, I found the solitude of American Samoa to be a refreshing departure. National Park of American Samoa has consistently ranked among the least visited parks in the U.S. system since its establishment in 1988, with just 12,135 visitors in 2023, according to National Park

Service data. Furthermore, many of these visitors were cruise travelers on day excursions.
In comparison, Gates of the Arctic, a remote national park in Alaska, received even fewer visitors in 2023, with 11,045 recreational visits. To put these numbers in perspective, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the most visited park on the list, welcomed a staggering 13.29 million visitors the same year.

Despite its low visitor numbers, the National Park of American Samoa offers a wealth of fascinating experiences, whether you're hiking through tropical rainforests or snorkeling in the park's extensive underwater areas spanning 4,000 acres. While traditional visitor services are scarce – with just one small visitor center on Tutuila and no established entrance gates or campgrounds – each view within the park is breathtaking. From the panoramic vista of Pago Pago Harbor atop Mount 'Alava Trail to the secluded lava-rock beach at the end of Tuafanua Trail, every scene is a marvel.

Yet, it's the rich history and vibrant culture that truly distinguish this park. American Samoans take pride in the park's unique status, designated through a land ownership agreement in 1993. This agreement involves a land lease with Samoan villages, preserving communal traditions and land ownership while supporting conservation efforts for the island's diverse ecosystem of tropical rainforests, coral reefs, and wildlife like the Samoan flying fox.

Beyond the park's boundaries, the strong cultural identity of American Samoa is evident in everyday life. With over 90% of the land communally owned by families and controlled by chiefs, the island maintains its unique heritage. This cultural richness is reflected in practices like Sa, the village-wide daily prayer time, the widespread use of traditional lavalavas (sarongs), and the observance of Sundays for religious services and family time.

Unlike other U.S. territories, American Samoa operates as a land of "U.S. nationals" rather than "U.S. citizens." While residents hold U.S. passports and can freely travel within the U.S., this distinction allows the territory to preserve its cultural identity by regulating land ownership and immigration. This ensures that the islands maintain their distinct character without the risk of becoming overly commercialized like other tourist destinations.

Warm Welcome and Adventure in American Samoa

While the island maintains its cultural identity, it warmly embraces visitors, as noted by Fa'amuli, the only eco-tourism operator on Tutuila. During my visit, I embarked on challenging hikes, such as the ascent of 1,700ft Mount 'Alava, and explored archaeological sites like the ancient star mound along Lower Sauma Ridge Trail. With more time, I would have ventured onto the water, renting a kayak in Pago Pago to explore the park from a different perspective.

Despite limited public beach access due to communal land ownership, local customs emphasize seeking permission from villagers before accessing most shorelines. However, this process is typically met with kindness, as noted by the National Park Service, ensuring a welcoming experience for visitors.

While it's often said that the journey is the destination, my experience at the National Park of American Samoa was different. Here, the destination itself is the main attraction, and the challenging journey to reach it only enhances its allure.